How chef Patrick O’Connell’s “living theater’ revolutionized fine dining

Patrick O’Connell is a singular force in the restaurant world, with a storied career that spans decades.

His masterpiece, The Inn at Little Washington, is not only one of the most awarded and cherished restaurants in Virginia and the D.C. area but also a culinary icon recognized across the country—and even the world. For more than 40 years, The Inn has set the standard for fine dining and hospitality, earning numerous accolades. O’Connell and his team have been celebrated with James Beard Awards, including a lifetime achievement award, as well as Michelin stars. The Inn has also received honors from Forbes, AAA, Wine Spectator, and even the White House.

Located about 60 miles from Washington, D.C., The Inn is a beacon in the restaurant world, with hospitality at its core. In 2018, it was awarded three stars by the Michelin Guide, a distinction it has retained ever since. As Andrew Lloyd Webber once remarked, “For my money, this little hotel provides the best overall dining experience I can remember in a long while, perhaps my best ever.”

Salon recently had the opportunity to speak with Chef O’Connell about the origins of The Inn, his commitment to sustainability, his iconic dishes and much more.

Patrick O’Connell (Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington)

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length. 

For those unfamiliar with The Inn at Little Washington, how would you describe its ethos?

Dining at The Inn at Little Washington has been likened to performance art with the guest always playing the starring role. The experience evokes a romantic dinner party in a private country house from another era. Whimsical touches such as our rolling cow — named Faira — displaying cheeses invites guests to relax, be themselves and have fun.

In addition to being a 3-Michelin Starred dining destination, The Inn at Little Washington is also the longest tenured Forbes 5 Star property in the world, where the finest culinary and hospitality experiences are delivered with a touch of theatrics. 

The Inn at Little Washington is a restorative retreat in the Virginia countryside, a place where the extraordinary is the norm and every detail is thoughtfully considered. 

Have there been any menu staples that have been present for your entire tenure? 

Some of the earliest dishes have found their way onto the menu at our newest café, Patty O’s, where they are enjoying great popularity. They are like family friends who have been with us for 46 years.

There’s a certain timelessness associated with The Inn at Little Washington. What do you attribute that to?

Consistency is the key to any restaurant’s longevity. In order to stay energized, a restaurant needs to continually reinvent itself, while keeping a thread of continuity. Each time a guest comes, there should be a new element of surprise. 

The Inn at Little Washington Main Inn Front (Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington)

I know that you’re self-taught. Can you tell me a bit about that? 

The first job I ever had was in a humble neighborhood restaurant. Perhaps there may be only one advantage to being ‘self taught’. No one is there to tell you that something is impossible.

Is there a dish on the menu currently that you are proudest of? 

I don’t serve anything I’m not proud of — they are all like my children. 

I know that there’s a real focus on sustainability at The Inn at Little Washington and there has been for a long time. You’ve championed so many important concepts — like farm-to-table, local, sustainable food — for years before those things became “trends,” if you will. Can you speak to that a bit? 

Sustainability has been at the heart of The Inn at Little Washington since day one — long before it was trendy.

When I first opened The Inn over 46 years ago, we were in a remote corner of Virginia with a limited supply chain, so sourcing locally wasn’t just a choice; it was a necessity. But that necessity quickly grew into a passion. We started by partnering with local farms and as time went on, we began growing our own ingredients right here on our 26-acre property.

Today, we employ two full-time farmers, five gardeners and a beekeeper. We’re one of five restaurants in the US to hold both 3-Michelin Stars and the Michelin Green Star for sustainability.

Braised Bison Short Rib (Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington)

The Inn at Little Washington has had three Michelin stars for a few years now — along with Green Stars — which is arguably the single most impressive accolade a restaurant can receive. What is it like to sustain that level of quality, of high-level food or elite service? 

Many people in our industry agree that maintaining is harder than achieving these accolades.

Would you say that your drama and acting background plays into your experience at The Inn at Little Washington? How does that background permeate your approach?

My background and love of theater is the element that most differentiates us from everyone else in the field. I’ve always felt that the dining experience is ‘living theater’.

Is there a particular dish over the years that you feel the most affinity for?

I focus on whatever is in front of me at the moment. Anything that is in season that we’ve grown captures all my interest. 

I’d love to hear more about this iconic butter pecan ice cream! It’s quite the legendary recipe.

In 1980, Craig Claiborne of the New York Times came for a visit and fell in love with our butter pecan ice cream. He said it was the finest butter pecan ice cream he’s ever tasted. Since then it has taken on a life of its own and seems to have universal appeal. We now serve it at our café. 

The Inn at Little Washington Foyer (Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington)

Beyond Michelin and Mobil, The Inn at Little Washington has received accolades from the James Beard Foundation, the International Herald Tribune, Zagat, Travel & Leisure and many, many other publications and organizations, like Wine Spectator, Cigar Aficionado and Gourmet. What is the level of training for staff? It must be incredibly thorough.

We never stop learning. We never stop training. 

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Can you talk a bit about Patty O’s? 

Located just steps from the main Inn and named after my childhood nickname, Patty O’s is a charming sidewalk café and European-style pastry shop which pays homage to my journey as a chef, capturing the essence of what has shaped me over the years. 

You won the Lifetime Achievement Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2019. What was it like to receive something so validating? 

There aren’t too many awards that you’d happily wait a lifetime for, but this was definitely one of them. I was humbled to join a group of incredibly distinguished icons who have received this rarified award before me. All of them have inspired me.

Dessert (Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington)

What stands out for you as a formative moment that got you into cooking or food at large? 

I sometimes think that the best and the worst thing that ever happened to me was that I got a job in a restaurant at the impressionable age of 15. The addiction was immediate. Once I discovered the intensity of this delicious business I was hooked. More than anything I fell in love with restaurant people. They always seemed to be paying a debt they didn’t owe while struggling to hold onto their dignity.

In those days the business was a safe haven for misfits of every persuasion who all seemed to have a whacked sense of humor and a genuine appreciation for the absurdities of life. Because restaurant people were capable of operating in two distinct worlds— “out front” in the dining room and in “in back,” behind the scenes in the kitchen, they made normal people seem one dimensional and infinitely boring by comparison.

Every day I felt like I was watching a split screen film with two shows running simultaneously — the fantasy taking place in the dining room juxtaposed with what was going on behind the scenes in the rough and tumble world of the kitchen.

What’s your biggest tip for cutting down on food waste? 

With over 250 staff to feed every day, twice a day, we don’t have a lot of wasted food. 

What’s next for you? 

Now that we have just completed the renovation of our newest accommodation, Cardinal’s Nest, we are turning our attention to further expansion. Plans for 10 new guest rooms and a spa have recently been approved.