“Clash of the Cookbooks”: A fresh serving of history, drama and delight

Cooking competitions have become as ubiquitous on television as nonstick skillets in home kitchens. From the breakneck eliminations of “Chopped” to the glitzy stakes of “Top Chef,” it’s easy to feel as though food television has entered its well-worn phase — perfectly palatable, but lacking a certain secret ingredient. Enter “Clash of the Cookbooks,” a refreshing reminder that even a well-loved format can still surprise.

The Roku series, hosted by the effervescent Phoebe Robinson of “2 Dope Queens” and the erudite food historian Max Miller, strikes a compelling balance between intrigue and ease. At its heart, the show is a celebration of cookbooks, those often-overlooked volumes that are as much about storytelling as they are about sustenance. With its blend of culinary history, intense challenges and playful banter, “Clash of the Cookbooks” feels like comfort viewing with a brainy twist, perfect to binge over the holiday break. 

The premise is deceptively simple: contestants cook their way through recipes from some of the world’s most challenging and fascinating cookbooks. But this is no ordinary cooking show. Each episode delves into culinary texts that span centuries, from opulent Victorian dinner party menus to modern Moroccan fare, creating a treasure trove for cookbook nerds and culinary history buffs alike.

The inaugural episode immerses viewers in the tragic glamour of Titanic-era dining. Contestants Ann, Seis and Maya are tasked with recreating dishes from “Last Dinner on the Titanic,” a book inspired by the grand (and final) menu of the ill-fated ship. Under the ticking clock, the chefs wrestle with dishes like tournedos aux morilles and quail with cherries. A small kitchen fire — now de rigueur for cooking competitions — raises the tension, but the true drama lies in the historical details, like one contestant’s attempt to execute a dish with a precision befitting Edwardian haute cuisine.

The show’s hosts keep the mood buoyant. Robinson’s sharp wit pairs perfectly with Miller’s encyclopedic knowledge of food history. A YouTube star whose channel “Tasting History” has garnered a devoted following, Miller seamlessly blends critique with historical tidbits. His comment on a just less-than-perfect dish — “If I were aboard the Titanic, I might send it back” — lands with just the right mix of humor and historical flair.

As the competition advances, so does the culinary timeline. In the second round, contestants tackle recipes from Mourad Lahlou’s “Mourad: New Moroccan,” a Michelin-starred exploration of traditional Moroccan flavors reimagined for modern palates. The surviving chefs face an entirely different set of challenges, trading aspics and tournedos for kefta tagines and lamb with eggplant-date purée. The juxtaposition of historical and modern cookbooks reveals not just how tastes have evolved, but also how much of cooking is rooted in reinvention.

By the time the show ventures into medieval cuisine in the next episodes — via texts like “The Forme of Cury” and “English Royal Cookbook”— it becomes clear that “Clash of the Cookbooks” is playing a long game. Here, contestants must decipher recipes that read more like riddles than instructions, relying on intuition and culinary ingenuity to bridge centuries of gastronomic evolution. The result is as much about problem-solving as it is about cooking, with plenty of commentary from Miller to illuminate the historical context.

What sets “Clash of the Cookbooks” apart is its unabashed embrace of cookbooks as cultural artifacts. Each text is treated as a living document of its era, rich with insights into the ingredients, techniques and stories of the time. The show makes a compelling case for cookbooks as history books — snapshots of human ingenuity, shaped by geography, class and politics.

While the show’s concept might sound niche, its execution is anything but. By anchoring each episode in a familiar competition format, “Clash of the Cookbooks” ensures that even casual viewers can appreciate the creativity and skill on display. But for those with a passion for culinary history, it’s an indulgent feast, offering a rare blend of entertainment and education.

In an era of food television that often feels over-seasoned and under-inspired, “Clash of the Cookbooks” is a savory surprise. By blending historical depth with a touch of competitive flair, the show doesn’t just entertain; it transports.

The entire first season of “Clash of the Cookbooks” is available to stream on Roku.