A house wine revival: How restaurants are redefining the concept

House wines have long been the underdog of drink menus—functional, affordable and often forgettable. But in the Bay Area, a new wave of partnerships between restaurants and local wineries is redefining what a house wine can be.

Bodega SF’s Jurassic Vineyard Riesling, crafted in collaboration with Comptoir Wine Co., offers a crisp, dry profile that perfectly complements the restaurant’s Vietnamese menu. Meanwhile, Flour + Water has teamed up with Subject to Change Wine Co. to create cheekily named blends like “Pasta Water” and “Pasta Sauce,” while Outta Sight has partnered with Deux Punx for a refreshing white wine blend.

These custom collaborations allow restaurants to celebrate their identities, showcase local terroirs and forge deeper connections with diners, all while encouraging an entire industry to rethink the potential of a good house wine.

Matt Ho of Bodega SF spoke with Salon about his new offering, how it pairs with their signature dishes like Banh Khot Caviar and the process behind crafting a blend that tells its own story.

This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity. 

What inspired the partnership between Bodega SF and Comptoir Wine Co. to create the ‘Jurassic Vineyard’ Riesling?

The partnership between Bodega SF and Comptoir Wine Co. was sparked by a genuine connection. David had been a fan of the restaurant from the beginning, and over time, we developed a strong friendship. I liked his wines and added them to the list. He has since been helping us run the wine program. We fantasized about working together on something special for the restaurant and when we saw that Riesling was available at the vineyard, it felt like the perfect time to collaborate — especially with the restaurant approaching its second anniversary. The Jurassic Vineyard Riesling became a way to celebrate that milestone and bring something unique to our guests. 

How does the unique profile of your house wine enhance the flavors of your Vietnamese menu offerings? Are there specific dishes that pair particularly well?

Our Riesling is crafted to be on the drier side, with crisp acidity and bright citrus notes that pair perfectly with several dishes on our menu. One standout pairing is the Banh Khot Caviar; the caviar’s salinity complements the wine’s minerality, creating a balanced and refreshing contrast. Another favorite is the Whole Fish Cha Ca, where the wine’s dry citrus profile enhances the flavors in the marinade, bringing out the best in both the dish and the wine. These combinations showcase how the Riesling truly elevates our food, making it more than just another wine by the glass — it’s an integral part of the dining experience.

Can you walk us through the process of creating a collaborative blend? What considerations do you and the winemaker discuss when crafting the wine?

Our priority was ensuring the Riesling would pair seamlessly with our food. The first decision was whether to make it on the sweeter or drier side, and we ultimately chose a dry style to enhance our menu’s flavors. We also wanted the wine to showcase the unique qualities of the vineyard itself. Fortunately, David has a thoughtful and minimalist approach to winemaking, so we trusted him to guide us in bringing out the vineyard’s essence and creating a wine that feels distinctly ours.

How have your customers reacted to the house wine blend? Have you noticed any shifts in preferences or feedback compared to traditional house wines?

Guests have been responding really well to the collaboration! Many are pleasantly surprised by its dryness, especially since Rieslings are often associated with sweetness. This unexpected twist has piqued interest, drawing in even those who might usually shy away from Rieslings. The dichotomy of citrus notes and minerality have been a standout feature, pairing seamlessly with our dishes and enhancing the dining experience. This shift has not only opened guests up to a different style of Riesling but also shown that a thoughtfully-chosen wine can change perceptions and create memorable pairings.

Do you foresee more restaurants following your lead in creating custom house wine blends? What do you think this trend says about the evolving relationship between food and wine?

Absolutely. I see more restaurants embracing custom labels as part of their unique identity. The restaurant community thrives on collaboration and fostering connections, and creating a signature wine is a powerful way to do that.

A custom blend lets us extend our brand beyond our walls and intrigue new guests who haven’t yet dined with us. It’s a natural extension of the evolving relationship between food and wine — one where both are seen as integral parts of a curated experience rather than standalone elements. 

This trend highlights a shift toward deeper storytelling, where every part of the meal, down to the glass, adds to the narrative and connection we build with guests.

What is your personal favorite aspect of the Jurassic Vineyard Riesling? 

What draws me to the Jurassic Vineyard Riesling is its unique character and fascinating origins. The name itself hints at the vineyard’s incredible terroir — fossil-rich soils and the old dinosaur-era oil rigs surrounding it. I especially admire how the limestone-rich soil and proximity to the cool Pacific winds imparts layered minerality and vibrant acidity to the wine, creating a complex, refreshing profile with each sip. It’s truly a wine that tells the story of its ancient landscape.